‘It wasn’t always like this,’ recalls Rishikesh Nandgiri, a member of Indian transgender spiritual group Kinnar Akhara, as worshippers line up for their blessings. Once excluded from the Kumbh Mela, India’s biggest Hindu festival, Nandgiri and other trans people now stand at its centre.
The Mela, held once every 12 years, is a meeting ground for religious leaders to share their spiritual teachings, and draws millions of devotees to bathe in the holy rivers. The 2025 Mela, held in the northern city of Prayagraj, was struck by tragedy on 29 January when a crowd surge turned fatal, killing at least 30. At the time of writing, little is known about what led to the crush. No members of Kinnar Akhara were harmed in the incident.
