The conditions for agricultural labourers in the Italian south have often been described as modern-day slavery. Most workers are migrants forced to live in shanty towns and work among the olive trees and tomato fields for less than €2 ($2.20) per hour. Often recruited by gangmasters, if they show any dissent they can be beaten, blackmailed or forced into sex work.

But in late 2019, a group of 122 migrant labourers started to see an improvement in their conditions. They now have up regular work contracts – a rare possession among their peers. The change is in part thanks to NoCap, a migrant-led association that is working to bring ‘exploitation-free’ tomato sauce, vegetables and fresh produce to tables across Europe.